The Saturday Lunch Crowd

It's hard to believe that you could have a more leisurely pace in a place like this.  That said,  it does appear that the Saturday lunch crowd has turned it down a notch.   A slow perfect lunch of enchiladas suises and a marg coupled with some people watching is a nice way to spend the afternoon.   One of my favorite places to feed is the sidewalk tables in front of the Hotel Gran in the working class plaza. The table closest to the street gives me a perfect view of the mariscos stand with it's 12 family members working different shifts.  The young boys are choppers, the older ones handle the orders and the most senior of the crew gets to wear the one white jacket.  Sometimes it's dad, sometimes it's the oldest son or the friend.  These three lovely ladies are having drinks at lunch at the meeting of the future sister-in-laws club.   Farther down the street Ignacio and Isabella are having a lunch date at the chopped meat stand.  If I had to guess they have been married about 79 years.  They held hands during the meal as they most likely have done for almost a century.  I also got an early morning massage at the local herbal healers shop.  To be honest not a bad experience for 10.50 US.  After a long hot shower I still have enough oil on my body to deep fry a donkey.  Anyone know if vegetable oil is good for the skin?   

A Different Pace of Life

It was a perfect morning in Patzcuaro today,.  Coffee in the small working class plaza about a mile for the homestead.  The hustle and bustle of the plaza and the surrounding builds made me take notice of what that pace looked like.  It was loud and colorful but not rushed.  Things seemed like they were happening on the their own time.  No one looked like they were late for anything.  Parents with children going about life as it comes to them.   I was thinking about the life I lead which at this point would hardly seem frantic.  The thing I realized was that I created some level of chaos only because I was used to chaos.  It's hard to leave the things you know, right.  When frantic wasn't there, my tiny brain was working to create it.  Now, having some time I have realized that if you push that chaos factory out of the way for a while, there are other things that want to come in and fill the space.  No doubt it will take some time to embrace those things....after all we don't like change.  But I will be working on it.

I have been here a couple of times in the past.  As I was sipping some coffee this morning it occurred to me that other than cell phone stores, nothing had changed here.  The pace, the interaction,  the priorities, nothing.  So, looking at the one peso pony it makes me wonder how often we don't put our two cents in and take the ride...

Name that Dish

Anyone feel sporty?  Dining at the Dona Paco on the plaza tonight one would usually have some ability to identify the dish that arrives with the dish that was ordered.  That was not the case this evening.  The supplied photo clearly shows either.....a large crisp Mexican free tail bat, a rodent of numerous possible genetic makeups, or some kind of fish filleted by Jack the Ripper himself.  Any other suggestions would be appreciated.  Now for those of you that think no one would have ordered the first two....please choose with caution.    The walk home would not be the same without the nightly pass by the 24 hour funeral shop.  There is something intimidating about trying to snap a photo of this place.  What you don't see are the 3 other shop fronts with at least six guys in chairs waiting for something to happen.  This must be the biggest employer in town.  

Love thy Neighbor

Often a travel experience is defined by the quality of the neighbors you meet along the way.  Sometimes at a sidewalk cafe or other times just outside your front door.  Today it was the later.  Just outside my front door was Scout, which was Tonto's horse now hiding in Mexico from the IRS.  Scout was munching away on what looked to be a bag of peanuts just a few doors down from the Patz homestead.  La Colima is a pretty quiet hood really just a few whinnies and the occasional  bark.    Scout is only parked a few doors down from the 24 hours casket sales place.  "Funerales Alaverz".  You just never know I guess.  

Just Plane Empty

I have always prided myself in finding the off beat places around the world to hang out.  You know the place?  Away from the hustle and bustle of those damn tourists.  My long and winding road to Patzcuaro took an unusual turn in that flying was on the agenda.  I figured that heading to Patz by air would be somewhat hectic and crowded.  I mean it's the pain of air travel.  Need I say more.  Well, this is a shot from my plane......after the door was closed.  I felt like I was on a holiday one way to the Bermuda Triangle.   But it all worked out.  My host was found at his house after some long circle routes by the cabbie.  Not his fault at all  The Mexican Google Map woman had obviously been drinking and had been watching too much Punked.  The host house was next to the sex hotel in some town with more consonants than vowels.  The hostess of that establishment was quick to jump out to greet the stopped cab, but was not happy when she didn't have a guest.  Exploration  begins tomorrow.  Adios.

Don't Judge Me...

Most think it's just some smelling, lip smacking, swizzling,  and swallowing.  OK. STOP. We are talking Chilli Cookoff Judging here.  Not that.  Truthfully, it's about facing fear.  Is this one a 10 no no it's a 9.  Maybe the last one was best....it's hard to say.  The life of a cook off judge is demanding and can often times be dangerous.  Today sitting at Table D4 with my amigo was just that sort of day. You can feel the eyes of the contestants as they leer at you from outside the judging building.  All their hopes and dreams slurped up by a few unknown people.  Only one can win and it's deadly serious business.  Texture, Aroma, taste, ingredients, and spiciness all have to to be weighted and balanced in the blink of an eye.  I'm sweating just thinking about it.  The experience will stay with you long after the last spoon as been thrown away.  Believe me....uggg.  The Chilli Cookoff at the High Sierra today was no small event. Judges are sworn to secrecy during the judging.   Psst....a secret....Number 3.  It was number 3.  You didn't hear it from me.

Circus Traveler and the Java Place

Just a quick poll.  How many times have you had coffee with a hitchhiking Belgium circus performer?  Yeap,  me too.  But only once this year.  I was sitting at my favorite coffee establishment...which is the only one in Terlingua, warming myself by the pot belly stove when I guy comes up and asks if I was going to Austin.  HUM.  I'm in a paramedic uniform and driving a rescue vehicle that has Terlingua Fire and EMS all over it.  Austin?  Sounds like a plan but I had to say not today.  He shrugged and said thanks in a Euro accent and went on his way.  My buddy said that he had seen this guy doing a one man show last week at the Starlight Theater and it was awesome.  We had a big race going on in Lajitas that weekend and had a lot of "tourons" in town.  (Tourist/Moron) = tourons. Not all for sure but a few.  I suggested to my new friend Hans that he should try there for a ride to Austin. Well shit, we decided to just go ahead and take him.  Now in most EMS environments there are specific rules about transporting a foreign traveling circus performer in a city emergency vehicle but this is Terlingua and you sort of skirt the known world.  Hans spends his time traveling the world on a shoestring,  juggling and doing his show.  Sometimes alone and sometimes with a troup of friends.  What a wonderful way to spend some time.  He was thoughtful, articulate, and a keen observer.  If you ever see this guy on the road, stop and give him a ride.  He may even pay you with a juggle.  Notice the homemade juggling clubs?  They were stolen in Texas...shame on us.  He said he walked away from them for a minute and they were gone.  Then looking perplexed he said, "no one but a juggler would take these things and no juggler would steal from another."  He smiled and shook his head.  So, a toast on the weekend to my circus traveler friend and that had nomadic life making people smile.  I'm off to practice my three ball.