When you least expect it

Having spent serveal days in San Cristobol de las Casa  I was settled in to a bottle of Cab on the sidewalk at the Bacco Bar.  Much to my surprise the locals had now become locals.  I guess that is the blessing of being in a place for a few days.  All travelers come together eventually and so today it was just that.  I was sitting there with my vino tinto and noticed a young crafts hawker walking by...... Much to my surprise she was sporting a "By Miles" sticker that was left to her or someone else a few days ago.  I am honored beyond words, and today I  see the "Vato" on the basket.    The other highlight was the duo of the harmonica man and the guitarista  ( my word) on the steps outside of Bacco.  Perhaps the words to live by came from Ricci the Italian owner of Bacco...when asked where he was the other day.."I did not come to Mexico to work hard".  He has been here for 11 years and had the bar for 7 years.   A new baby and a smile makes me believe he has found his pace.  To all who are looking for the cadence that makes life.... I salute you...

Politics of Rebellion

Years ago I was here in San Cristobol de las Casas just after the Zapatista rebellion had killed many innocent people in this region.  As always when innocent people are killed, no was was right.  I remember feeling the tremendous tension everywhere in town and even more in the countryside.  Soldiers, tanks, and machine guns have a way of doing that to people.  Today, in San Cris there was a protest.  A small one to be sure, something about classes at the local university.  It was not the cause that stirred the pot but the presence of the military driving around the Zocalo.  In a place where kindness is common to the homeless, the old, and stray dogs you would think people and governments could do the same.   Maybe it really is time to do it a different way.....

Patience and the table monsters

The street sellers are a recurring theme in this part of the world.  Today I broke down and followed the lesson of my teacher from earlier in the week,  John.  I sat and did some very focused negotiations with some of the local clay figure vendors.  The oldest being around 8.  I estimated there must have been around 13 of them at one time.  The photo is the end result of about 40 minutes of barter and the equivalent of about $1.15 us.   The vino tinto took much less time and was a welcome bonus.  Those of you who know me are wondering "RED", is that possible.  The answer is when in Rome do as the Romans do.  Yes, I have found a bit of my red groove.   Will it be imported?  Only time will tell.  FYI, do not be surprised to see these objects in your Christmas stockings this year....  

Break Time

Chiapas is full of local indigenous indians that come into town to sell their handicrafts.  These ladies were taking a break from the hustle and bustle of the Zocalo to take a load off and talk shop.  Today I found out that one thing they certainly do not like is the camera.  It scatters them like M&M's on a marble floor.  I would think it must be a difficult  to pack up all that stuff every morning and come to town then take the bus back when the day is done then do it again tomorrow.   One thing is for sure.  I can't even come close to sitting like that.   To flexibility in all parts of life.

The Supershine

Sitting at the Bacco this afternoon one has the opportunity to meet a few of the off beat travelers.  John and Nelson were two of those adventurers.  They had spent over three weeks driving the circumference of the state of Chiapas.  Some bribes, and few teddy bears later and they ended up in San Cristobol.   John was about the biggest street urchin push over I have ever seen.  He haggle and laughed and teased everyone of the children that walked by until he decided among other things.....a shoe shine.  Nelson said it was his forth since arriving in town.  They rolled in yesterday evening.  So how many urchins does it take to shine an already spotless centavo loafer you ask?  Seven seems to be a good number.   A toast to John the traveler and the cleanest shoes in the Northern Hemisphere and a lesson that shooing them away may be a lot less fun and finding a few pesos and enjoying the view.

It has been many years since I have been to San Cristobal de Las Casas in Chiapas.  The old city is nestled in a mountain valley at the beginning of the Maya world.  Indians come on a regular basis to trade the same small textiles and bits of cloth that they have done for centuries.  San Cris has changed enormously over the years.  It's still the small quaint place with cobble stone streets and narrow alleys but it has become a tourist destination of sorts.  The backpacker genre has been pushed out of the town center and it has been replaced with sidewalk cafes and pedestrian streets lined with restaurants
My favorite is the La Vina de Bacco on a narrow side street near the Zocalo.

On Today's schedule is some photography and some writing.  Then off to some of the villages in the countryside.    I am also exploring some new career ops and thought that a candy seller in the plaza seemed like a low stress job.  It allows you to meet people and get outside.  Your thought....