The Fish Market and the Chair

The old town of Zihua is sort of a cross between a movie set and ghost town.  It is very low season here and there is not much happening.  Most things are open but everything has slowed down due to the weather and heat.  The fisherman were out early and selling their wares at the impromptu market at the  beach.  The big stuff seems to have gone early with the restaurants jumping in quickly.  The rest was slowly sold to the locals looking for a fresh but small meal.  As I was strolling I did come across one of the most heinous inventions ever made.   They called it a chair but in reality it was nothing more than a torture device.  Made of rebar and plastic rubber bands.  The hole looking thing in the middle is all rebar.  I imagine the circle is designed for some sort of blood letting.  Truly, I  have never sat in anything as awful as this thing.   I made the mistake of sitting in this thing only to find that it was impossible to get out even thought rebar was impaling you.  The base was so unstable that it would not allow you to pull yourself up.  No way.  So move over water boarding.  There is a new sheriff in town.

A Matter of Movement

Today was the day of movement.  A trip from Patzcuaro to Zihua on the coast.  Those who know me understand that I don't like to rush anywhere.  No OJ running, no jumping into taxis, no begging to get on a bus or a plane.  So, you can imagine my mild concern when at breakfast I glanced at the bus ticket I had so proudly bought the day at the bus station itself.  Somehow the smiling lady behind the counter just assumed that my first class ticket from Moreila to Zihua was enough.  And yes those of you with a globe will realize that Moreilia is about an hour from Patz,.  Mild panic and extreme frustration set in immediately at my lack of "seasoning" for not looking at the bus ticket   With all that griping me I ran into a 2 kilometer line of 9 years olds taking up the sidewalk as I was hustling to get back to try to make the Moreila connection.  Hundreds of kid, girls and boys all the same age and dressed the same.  Shit.  What just happened to me....?  

Yes, the connection was made and my ride  was a super fine Autovias bus.  I mean it rivaled any first class upgrade without the wine.  TV, games, foot boards, AC, and wide enough seats for a gringo hombre.  The good life.  Anyone who as ever traveled on the Primero Classe bus in Mexico knows what I am talking about.  Lux all the way.  My favorite feature was the his and hers banos.  Yes ladies no more sharing.  One of your own.  It looked like it came out of the Space X waiting room.  All was perfect until it was time to leave the private comforts of the bano.  The most intimidating feature of the WC was the enormous red light and it's mysterious button.  Believe me, nothing was obvious.  As I was being battered down the road,  I realized that I had no idea how to flush this space age beast.  Wast it the red light?  Maybe...or was the red light the emergency stop for the bus?  or even worst as I saw in India?  A faded red lever that opened up the bottom of the train to allow drainage or doubled as an emergency escape hatch in the event of an unfortunate train mishap.   Fact of the matter was it was hot as hell in there and I was worried that some passenger in need would be waiting outside wondering what the gringo found so amusing about the bus toilet.  Yes, I pushed it.  And no the bus didn't stop or I wasn't ejected through the floor.  Remember....there is nothing to fear but fear itself.  Just make sure you hold onto the door handle before you take the plunge.  Coastal exploration is on the agenda.  

Portofino in Patzcuaro

It's always an adventure to wander around a new place and find cuisine that has little or nothing to do with the culture you are in.  Maybe it's Chinese in Guatemala or Mexican food in Hanoi.  It's usually got a little different twist.  Tonight it was Italian in Patzcuaro brought to you by Alejandro.  Owner, chef, waiter, bartender, and dishwasher.  The food was awesome and if anyone every heads this direction I would completely recommend it.  Just a 100 yards off the main plaza on the Southeastern corner.  It was a fitting ending to a day that saw the plaza closed all morning for teacher protests.  The same one's that ended in violence a couple of days ago in Guerrero state next door.  Three dead in that one.  Tomorrow is the Pacific Coast and some hotter weather. 

Two way Street

Two things always seem to come to mind in the street life of different places in the world.  The resilience and creativity of people and the hard and often times inspirational  struggle of street life in general.  Last night I was privaledged  to watch a street food hawker making and selling individual hand made pizzas.  He created this amazing "rig" that had a three wheeled motor bike, a serving and condiment area, an internal pizza oven, all sorts of awnings and covers to protect him from the rain and great looking pizza.  All done by himself for the most part and then he folds up and drives away to who knows where.  Amazing.  Then there is Pablo the street dog.  Yes, a dog.  I have watched this dog work the street over the last few days and I am humbled at his considerable skills.  Tonight he did his sad eye thing and managed a few bits of meat from my "Tacos Arrierios".  Yes, stop and breath.  I give the dog some food.  I watched him go from tail wagging to sad eyes, to back to close contact petting and then run off when he saw a group of girls he knew.  Hoping for a better deal.... Asshole.  So...I know its the street, right.  Hurt feelings aside.  He came back did his thing and then was gone.  You have to continue the hustle when you live on the street.  2000 Singapore.... I know a brother when I see one.  So....here is a raised glass to all the women and men working hard tonight.  And to the everyone who as ever been the privileged traveler.  Never be rude...never look down...never ever lose respect.... mañana ....

Dance Fever Patzcuaro Style

Mid morning rain slowed the plaza down this morning in Patzcuaro.  At about noon the clouds parted and the celebration began.  By celebration I mean just a Sunday afternoon in the Western Highlands of Mexico.  Families, friends, lovers, and a few curious gringos out enjoying a stroll with everyone else.  These traditional dancers were amazing.  The young members had a little trouble keeping up but still a great show.   A slower more focused pace of life as I have said before.  Something worth thinking about.  After the show I spent some time on the balcony listening to the steady booms in the background.  Fireworks I guess but you in the land of "La Familia" the meanest drug cartel in Mexico, you do listen to the noise.   It's funny I'm just starting to feel the place.  Takes about a week I guess.   Viva Patzcuaro.

The Saturday Lunch Crowd

It's hard to believe that you could have a more leisurely pace in a place like this.  That said,  it does appear that the Saturday lunch crowd has turned it down a notch.   A slow perfect lunch of enchiladas suises and a marg coupled with some people watching is a nice way to spend the afternoon.   One of my favorite places to feed is the sidewalk tables in front of the Hotel Gran in the working class plaza. The table closest to the street gives me a perfect view of the mariscos stand with it's 12 family members working different shifts.  The young boys are choppers, the older ones handle the orders and the most senior of the crew gets to wear the one white jacket.  Sometimes it's dad, sometimes it's the oldest son or the friend.  These three lovely ladies are having drinks at lunch at the meeting of the future sister-in-laws club.   Farther down the street Ignacio and Isabella are having a lunch date at the chopped meat stand.  If I had to guess they have been married about 79 years.  They held hands during the meal as they most likely have done for almost a century.  I also got an early morning massage at the local herbal healers shop.  To be honest not a bad experience for 10.50 US.  After a long hot shower I still have enough oil on my body to deep fry a donkey.  Anyone know if vegetable oil is good for the skin?   

A Different Pace of Life

It was a perfect morning in Patzcuaro today,.  Coffee in the small working class plaza about a mile for the homestead.  The hustle and bustle of the plaza and the surrounding builds made me take notice of what that pace looked like.  It was loud and colorful but not rushed.  Things seemed like they were happening on the their own time.  No one looked like they were late for anything.  Parents with children going about life as it comes to them.   I was thinking about the life I lead which at this point would hardly seem frantic.  The thing I realized was that I created some level of chaos only because I was used to chaos.  It's hard to leave the things you know, right.  When frantic wasn't there, my tiny brain was working to create it.  Now, having some time I have realized that if you push that chaos factory out of the way for a while, there are other things that want to come in and fill the space.  No doubt it will take some time to embrace those things....after all we don't like change.  But I will be working on it.

I have been here a couple of times in the past.  As I was sipping some coffee this morning it occurred to me that other than cell phone stores, nothing had changed here.  The pace, the interaction,  the priorities, nothing.  So, looking at the one peso pony it makes me wonder how often we don't put our two cents in and take the ride...

Name that Dish

Anyone feel sporty?  Dining at the Dona Paco on the plaza tonight one would usually have some ability to identify the dish that arrives with the dish that was ordered.  That was not the case this evening.  The supplied photo clearly shows either.....a large crisp Mexican free tail bat, a rodent of numerous possible genetic makeups, or some kind of fish filleted by Jack the Ripper himself.  Any other suggestions would be appreciated.  Now for those of you that think no one would have ordered the first two....please choose with caution.    The walk home would not be the same without the nightly pass by the 24 hour funeral shop.  There is something intimidating about trying to snap a photo of this place.  What you don't see are the 3 other shop fronts with at least six guys in chairs waiting for something to happen.  This must be the biggest employer in town.  

Love thy Neighbor

Often a travel experience is defined by the quality of the neighbors you meet along the way.  Sometimes at a sidewalk cafe or other times just outside your front door.  Today it was the later.  Just outside my front door was Scout, which was Tonto's horse now hiding in Mexico from the IRS.  Scout was munching away on what looked to be a bag of peanuts just a few doors down from the Patz homestead.  La Colima is a pretty quiet hood really just a few whinnies and the occasional  bark.    Scout is only parked a few doors down from the 24 hours casket sales place.  "Funerales Alaverz".  You just never know I guess.  

Just Plane Empty

I have always prided myself in finding the off beat places around the world to hang out.  You know the place?  Away from the hustle and bustle of those damn tourists.  My long and winding road to Patzcuaro took an unusual turn in that flying was on the agenda.  I figured that heading to Patz by air would be somewhat hectic and crowded.  I mean it's the pain of air travel.  Need I say more.  Well, this is a shot from my plane......after the door was closed.  I felt like I was on a holiday one way to the Bermuda Triangle.   But it all worked out.  My host was found at his house after some long circle routes by the cabbie.  Not his fault at all  The Mexican Google Map woman had obviously been drinking and had been watching too much Punked.  The host house was next to the sex hotel in some town with more consonants than vowels.  The hostess of that establishment was quick to jump out to greet the stopped cab, but was not happy when she didn't have a guest.  Exploration  begins tomorrow.  Adios.