It has been years since I have been to San Miguel de Allende. So much has changed and so much has stayed the same. English is heard as often as Spanish and the price of real estate is ridiculous. The last time I was there it was all coming but had not yet arrived. What is still there is a charm and vibe that is undeniable. The city has changed but some parts still retain a sense of how things used to be. My favorite place is a small plaza tucked away at the end of Recreo and the Parque Juarez. Blink and you will miss it. It is about 100 by 100 square with a perfect palm tree gracing the center. It was the place the washing was done many years ago. There is still the aqueduct and the washing troughs around the plaza. It's a meeting place for Mexican tour groups who come to hear the story and see the park. It is also my favorite place to site and enjoy the evenings watching the groups come through.
My favorite tour guide is Lonzo. He pulls out a wolf mask and reenacts the legend of the people of San Miguel. He also gets his patrons to laugh and sing and do all sorts of things the other guides could not possibility do. The Musicians are Carlos and his wife, Gloria. They are there every evening working for a few pesos and enjoying a few minutes of fame. They also sell a ball or two of cheese there. In fact I'm eating it now. So, if you come to San Miguel please wander down the washing plaza and sit for awhile. Carlos and Gloria may even play you a song.
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